Accra is the capital and most populous city of Ghana, a nation on the coast of the western region of Africa. The city also doubles as the capital of the Greater Accra Region, and of the Accra Metropolis District with which it is coterminous^[1]. It is the administrative, communications, and economic center of the country. Over 70% of Ghana’s manufacturing capacity is located within this region district. ^[2] Accra has been Ghana’s capital since 1877, and contains public buildings reflecting its transition from a 19th century suburb of Victoriasborg to the modern metropolis it is today.

Among the attractions of Accra are the National Museum, with a display of exhibits that reflect the heritage of Ghana from prehistoric times to modern times, the National Theatre with its distinct modern architecture, Independence Square, the Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum, the Accra International Conference Centre, the fishing port at Jamestown and Makola Market.

Travel by air

Kotoka International Airport is a major hub, with international connections from North America, Europe, Africa and the Middle East, along with internal connections to Kumasi and Tamale.

From the United States, Delta Airlines operates 4 times weekly flights directly from JFK. From there, it is possible to connect to all major North, South, and Latin American cities, and the Caribbean.

Demograhics

Accra has a population of 2,096,653. The local language is Ga but Twi (pron. ‘ch-wee’), Ewe (pron. ayvay) and Hausa arealso widely spoken (as well as English). Accra has rich western looking buildings and dusty shanty towns.

Getting Around

SUV or Car with driver

If you need an SUV or a sedan there are plenty of affordable options because even the best drivers earn only about $15 a day in Accra. You can book directly from Avis and local rental companies at the larger hotels, such as the Golden Tulip, La Palm, or La Badi Beach. Cars are available on short notice but if you want a van or SUV it is best to book ahead. Rates for car and driver are about $9 (Ghana Cedis 11.25) an hour. For a $75 you can book a ten hour day, but fuel is extra. Rates increase if you leave metro Accra, which is fair because poor roads add to the wear and tear on the vehicle. Toyota Land Cruisers are a popular choice and are widely available.

On foot

Accra is relatively safe to walk around during the day (and night, in many areas). Watch out for open sewers, automobiles, (even in the city) when walking the streets.

By taxi

To flag a taxi wave your arm with your finger pointed down to the ground. On a busy street you will have many taxis driving past trying to offer you their service. There are no meters on Ghanaian taxis. You must negotiate how much you are willing to pay before you start the trip. Try to ask someone local how much a trip to a certain location usually costs.

Taxis are generally easy to identify. The two front side panels and the two real side panels are normally painted yellow with a different colour for the rest of the vehicle.

That said, the most important way of recognising taxis are by the number plates–they, like many commercial vehicles, always have a yellow background, with black lettering, as compared to the private vehicles that have white background, with black lettering.

Metered Taxi There are some taxis with meters in them. They are generally more expensive, but you can be a little more sure about how much they will cost.

Share TaxiThese follow fixed routes, similar to taxis’ and have fixed rates per passenger. These can be a very useful way to get about the centre of Accra. The rate is not dependant upon numbers of passengers, so you may be lucky enough to travel in a taxi alone for a fifth the rate you’d have paid to flag it down.

Tro TroTroTros are very crowded and dilapidated private vans that act as the city’s public transit system. TroTros travel along a well known routes in the city, and stop at various points along the way (some stops have signs, others don’t). As a TroTro approaches a stop, a “mate” (the driver’s assistant) will usually yell out the side of the window where the TroTro is going. Many people die in trotro accidents every year.

Shopping

Makola market, in Accra’s busy downtown, includes an entire street and alley full of fabric shops where you’ll find wax-print pagnes, as well as embroidered and beaded cotton and tulle for special occasions. Look for wax prints from Ghana Traditional Prints (GTP) and the Akosombo Textile Company, which issue a wide range of new designs annually. Woodin, an upscale fabric store with outlets in Osu and at the A&P shopping mall in East Legon, sells a variety of shiny patterned cottons, batiks, and ready-made clothes.

Kaneshie Market is both a transit center and a great place to shop. You’ll find food and household items on the first floor; beads, hair salons, shoes, handbags, and beauty products on the second floor, and fabric shops and seamstresses on the third floor. If you arrange to have something sewn by one of Kaneshie’s very competent seamstresses or tailors, be sure to remember the shop number (usually posted right above the door), so you can find them again in the maze that is the third floor.

For curio shopping, the National Cultural Center near Black Star Square is an overwhelming but well-stocked option. A smaller curio market can be found at Tetteh Quarshie Circle, adjacent to the off-ramp leading toward Dzorwulu and Lapaz.

Wild Gecko (between Tetteh Quarshie Circle and the Univ of Ghana-Legon campus) sells a variety of crafts, upscale curios, furniture, and batik clothing. Be sure to check out the extensive collection of Christmas ornaments, including Adinkra symbols. Venture down the dirt road from Wild Gecko and you’ll find several smaller but well-stocked pottery and craft stores.

For a more westernized shopping experience, visit Palace Shopping Mall, situated on Spintex Road. It is a large department store selling everything from the smallest of items (i.e: padlocks, topperwares, vases), to more high-end, larger products (i.e: LCD TVs, furniture, treadmills, jacuzzis). A great place to spend an hour or so of shopping, with over 15,000 products for sale.

The recently built Accra Mall which is just off the Tema motorway is a very modern shopping centre with shops to cater all for needs and a 3 screen cinema, stores such as Shoprite (a South African chain), Game, Mr. Price, Woodin (for traditional Ghana cotton prints), electronic stores such as Sony Centre, Puma and Nike stores, and a massive food court with both traditional and western foods.